Sidestreet Travel

Lisbon welcomed me with its familiar warmth and vibrancy. I arrived in November for Web Summit, a refreshing change from Amsterdam’s constant rain to Lisbon’s sunny 20-degree charm. Landing on a Sunday, I had a rare, leisurely day to explore before the conference buzz. The city’s unique blend of history and modernity was immediately apparent, from the cobblestone streets to the vibrant street art.

The morning unfolded at the bustling Baixa Market in the central plaza, where stalls brimmed with trinkets, souvenirs, and the hum of local chatter. Although geared to tourists, this market had a beautiful selection of locally made products. I recharged with a velvety espresso and an assortment of pastries at the National Cafetaria, then wandered into a narrow sidestreet café perched high above the city, savouring a glass (or two) of Portuguese wine. The day ended with a feast—a seafood platter served in a tiny family-run restaurant tucked into an unassuming corner, proof that Lisbon’s true magic hides in its sidestreets.

Even during the whirlwind of conference days, the city left room for indulgence. Mornings began with aromatic locally roasted coffee, while evenings transformed into a sensory journey of Portuguese and international flavours. And somewhere between it all, I even managed a workout—because who says you can’t mix a bit of discipline with indulgence?

Here are my top spots to eat and drink in Lisbon:

Speciality Coffee

Hello Kristof – Nestled on a charming sidestreet in the Bica neighbourhood, Hello Kristof’s pastel pink facade feels like an open invitation. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee and warm pastries draws you in. This cozy café doubles as a zine-lover’s paradise, with eclectic magazines to thumb through while savouring their signature breakfast dishes. Don’t miss the homemade granola, a local favourite that tastes as good as it looks. Bonus tip: a second location in Alfama is equally delightful.

Fabrica Coffee Roasters—With five locations across the city, Fabrica Coffee Roasters ensures you’re never far from an exceptional cup of coffee. During the conference, I made their spot near the Moorish Quarter my daily breakfast stop, indulging in freshly baked bread and buttery pastries. Their dedication to roasting their beans ensures every cup is rich and flavourful. For a unique experience, visit their converted van café near the National History Museum—an adorable alternative to a traditional cafe.

The Coffee: Where Brazilian coffee meets Japanese minimalism, The Coffee stands out as a unique concept café. The design is simple yet inviting, blending clean lines with warm wooden tones. But the true highlight is the coffee—meticulously prepared and bursting with flavour. Of their many locations, my favourite is on Rua de S. Paulo, a charming spot atop a few hundred steps. Trust me, the climb is worth it.

Restaurants & Bars

Sant’ Avo—On the brink of hunger, I stumbled upon Sant’ Avo, and it felt like walking into a warm embrace. This homey restaurant exudes nostalgia, with candlelit tables, family photos on the walls, and fresh flowers casually placed as if by a loving grandmother. The menu celebrates Portuguese home cooking—simple, hearty, and soul-satisfying. Eating here felt like being invited to dinner at someone’s family table.

Rosamar – Chic yet inviting, Rosamar redefines modern Portuguese seafood. Its stylish interior—dark wood accents, vibrant murals, and lush greenery—sets the tone for a memorable dining experience. The menu takes a contemporary twist on traditional dishes, pairing fresh, local ingredients with creative presentations. It’s a luxurious, approachable meal, perfect for a memorable evening.

Leonetta: Leonetta is a delightful Italian oasis in Lisbon. Its lush, romantic interior and laid-back fine dining vibe make it the perfect place to linger over a meal. Start with a classic Italian cocktail and share a few antipasti plates before diving into the hearty, soul-warming main dishes. Sharing is key here—the more dishes you try, the better. This unexpected gem quickly became one of my favourite finds in the city.

O Fernandinho – Tucked away down a sidestreet in Bairro Alto, O Fernandinho is small but immense in character. This unassuming gem serves an excellent selection of local fish and meat dishes paired with some of Portugal’s finest wines. For a truly authentic dining experience, detour here—but bring your patience, as this cozy spot often has a wait that’s well worth it.

Lisbon by the Glass – Perched on a classic Lisbon staircase, this cozy wine shop offers an intimate escape for oenophiles. Their selection of Portuguese wines pairs beautifully with small snacks, making it the perfect spot to unwind. Time your visit for sunset, and you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking terrace views that elevate the entire experience.

Bloco— Bloco is a treasure for wine lovers and music enthusiasts alike. This natural wine bar and listening lounge is a haven for those who want to unwind with a glass of exceptional natural wine. Their ever-changing wine list guarantees surprises, and the friendly staff are happy to guide you. Add small bites, cozy vibes, and a soundtrack of eclectic tunes, and you’ve got the perfect pre-dinner spot—or a place to enjoy the moment.

Sights & Shopping

Miradouro se São Pedro de Alcântara – This spectacular vantage point offers sweeping views of Lisbon, where terracotta rooftops meet the endless blue of the sky. A small café kiosk serves wine, coffee, and beer, making it the perfect spot to sip and soak in the scene. It was here, perched on a sunlit bench, that I first felt the rhythm of Lisbon: a city that invites you to relax, slow down, and savour each moment. This spot is a favourite among locals and tourists alike for its stunning views and relaxed atmosphere.

Carmo Convent – The Carmo Convent is a striking blend of history and tranquility. This archeological marvel offers a glimpse into Portugal’s rich past and a serene escape. It’s an ideal place to pause with a glass of wine, watch the ebb and flow of tourists and locals, and let the gentle strum of street musicians transport you to another time.

Praça do Comércio – This grand riverside plaza is the heart of Lisbon, where locals and tourists gather to soak in its vibrant energy. Framed by stately yellow buildings and the shimmering Tagus River, it’s a place that feels alive at any time of year. During the holidays, the square transforms into a festive wonderland, adorned with dazzling lights and ornaments that cast a warm glow on the cobblestones. Vendors fill the air with the inviting aroma of roasted chestnuts, perfect for snacking as you sip a glass of local wine. As the sun dips below the horizon, a gentle breeze carries the scent of the river, and the plaza offers a front-row seat to one of Lisbon’s most breathtaking sunsets—a moment to savour and remember.

As de Espadas Vintage—If you’re searching for authentic vintage treasures, As de Espadas is your go-to boutique. From quirky garments to unique home goods, their carefully curated selection makes for one-of-a-kind souvenirs. With two locations just 10 minutes apart, you’ll have double the chance to find a perfect piece that tells its own story.

Typografia—For t-shirt enthusiasts and lovers of unique, locally made products, Typografia is a must-visit. This creative hub was born from Lisbon’s vibrant design culture and brought to life by a collective of local artists and makers. Each t-shirt here is more than just apparel—it’s a wearable piece of Lisbon’s artistic spirit, with designs that capture the city’s energy, charm, and individuality. Whether hunting for a standout souvenir or adding to your collection of handmade finds, Typografia offers a perfect blend of style, craftsmanship, and authenticity.

Baixa Market—Nestled in the heart of Lisbon, the Baixa Market offers a wonderful selection of handmade treasures, from colourful ceramics (a must-buy!), textiles, trinkets for the home, jewelry, and vintage clothes. Many vendors proudly carry on the family legacy, passing down family businesses through generations—a testament to Lisbon’s artisanal spirit. Supporting local artisans here is not just a choice; it’s a way to connect with the city’s culture. After browsing the vibrant market, take a well-deserved break at the nearby Confeitaria Nacional, where an assortment of Portuguese pastries and treats await to cap off your visit.