Sidestreet Travel

Prague often conjures up romantic and fantastical images, with the iconic Charles Bridge, lavish castles, and impeccably composed Old Town. And rightly so, Prague has served as a cultural, political, and economic hub over thousands of years and was an important city for several Holy Roman Emperors. If you’re an architecture buff, you will find several architectural types (Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque) throughout. It’s like the city was stuck in time, perfectly preserved, while the surroundings slowly changed with time.

One of the other things that really stood out to me about Prague is its deep-seated cultural history. References to Franz Kafka are everywhere; a writer who left an incredible mark on the literary world, the city of Prague, and its history. I also discovered an astonishing array of contemporary artists, and the most unexpected discovery was František Kupka (another FK). His work was stunning for its time. Works that felt like they had been made twenty or thirty years ago. It left me wanting to dig deeper into this artistic history.

It’s the perfect weekend or long weekend getaway, where you can mix eating, drinking, art, city walks, sightseeing, and spas all in one. The traditional Czech food is hearty and filling and can be easily washed down with a pint of ice-cold Pilsner (or absinthe if you’re feeling bold). Indeed, it is a delight. But the city also has a beautiful assortment of budding entrepreneurs making a mark with their visions of a modern Prague. This city was a delight, either on its own or as a stop-over to explore the rest of Czechia.

My trip coincided with a wedding, so I had less than three days to explore the city, but this was still a fair amount of time to see the main iconic monuments, buildings, and public spaces. The city is highly walkable, but it’s advisable to break it up into prominent neighbourhoods so you can give yourself a chance to explore the iconic landmarks thoroughly. Some spots I found (Bohemia, Alma Wines and Lucerne Cafe) resulted from wandering on the side streets with only the general direction to guide me. If you are fit and enjoy walking, I recommend walking. However, you can also use the extensive and excellent public transit system, which is incredibly affordable.

Where to Eat & Drink

When it comes to eating and drinking in Prague, you might conjure up a crystal-clear image of cold Pilsner Urquell in the iconic beer mug next to pork knuckles, venison, and a delightful assortment of sweet pastries. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the diverse culinary scene in Prague. The variety of Czech cuisine, the contemporary spin on Czech classics, and international options (Mexican, Vietnamese, French, and much more) were a delightful revelation. Here is a list of the restaurants to consider when planning your trip.

Restaurants & Bars

Vinohradsky Parlament—This is a Czech staple with expats and locals alike. This restaurant is not only delicious and cozy but also surprisingly affordable. It’s also great for groups. Expect local Czech food like deer, dumplings (an assortment), seasonal offerings (like the asparagus soup) and Czech beer; if you’re starving, the all-you-can-eat dumplings with deer is a good choice. Top off your dinner with a limon digestif and a dessert.

Vegan’s Prague—The city has a fair amount of vegan options (truly vegan), but this spot also serves up a fantastic roof-top terrace, a delightful wine selection, and top-notch vegan food. I took the vegan Caesar salad, and you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference. I also love the frizzing.

Bihn Bo Vietnamese—This restaurant is a true hidden gem, a delightful hole-in-the-wall. It is a delightfully cheap and cheerful place for Vietnamese food. Whatever you choose, start with the rice wrap rolls. The portions are ample, so go hungry and be ready to order a lot.

Tek’ila Tek’ila— Although I am skeptical of Mexican food outside of Mexico, I desperately needed a break from traditional Czech food. This spot is suitable for groups; they have a nice happy hour and often have live music.

Lucerna Cafe Bar— Cafe by day, bar by night. This cafe is perfect for an afternoon spritz and people-watching. Even better, it’s a cafe by day and a bar by night. The modern yet cozy ambiance makes it a great spot to unwind after a day of exploring.

Standard Café —This little hole-in-the-wall cafe/bar is charming. The interiors are worn, wooden, and cozy, but on a sunny day, the terrace is fantastic. Stop by for coffee, wine, beer, and cocktails and enjoy the eclectic people-watching around you.

Coffee Scene in Prague

Coffee is one of my favourite things, and I love exploring the coffee scene when I travel to new cities. Prague’s cafes did not disappoint. In my quest for great coffee, I found some excellent spots that delivered superb coffee, customer service, and general vibes. I also recommend picking up beans from Version or Miner’s Coffee.

Version Coffee — A minimalist, hip coffee bar offering fantastic coffee and food. Expect interesting roasts from Honduras, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Colombia, and Peru. They provide a great range of processing methods, so ask for a filter and get cozy in the cafe. They also have a delicious assortment of snacks and breakfast and lunch foods. Enjoy!

The Miners Coffee Charles Bar—This another fantastic spot for coffee in Prague. There are multiple locations around the city. The vibe at the Charles Bridge is cozy and peaceful. It’s on a sidestreet, with lovely interiors for taking a bit or doing work. But the best thing is the coffee. I brought home a bag from Brazil (Antonia Kellyson), bright, fruity, and with a hint of acidity.

The Miners Coffee Old Town—This is a much smaller shop/cafe, but if you are looking for specialty coffee in the Old Town, this is your spot.

Elias Cafe— If you’re vegan or like to mix in plant-based options, this little cafe is an excellent spot, especially in a city/country that is quite meat-heavy. Expect a fantastic assortment of pastries, cakes, and breakfast and lunch items. The cafe is also a vibe.

Shopping & Souvenirs

Bohemia—I stumbled on this souvenir shop while wandering through Old Town. The shop specializes in local artists with a fantastic offering of items you want to take home for yourself or give to others. A modern spin on classical souvenirs, you can find beautiful prints with an homage to vintage styles and art nouveau next to funky prints that nod to the youthful side of the city—take-home prints, socks, shirts, notebooks, totes, pins, and famous Czech authors.

Museums & Landmarks

Museum Kampa and Cafe—A contemporary museum highlighting Czech and global artists. For museum lovers, make sure to include this one on your list. The museum houses an extensive collection of artworks from the Czech artist František Kupka. There is also an ample collection of other contemporary Czech artists. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection.

Places I missed but are on my hit list when I go back

Alma Wine Shop & Restaurant—Wine shop cum restaurant. Stop by for a bottle or two of natural wine and enjoy a glass and a snack. A nice change of pace from the traditional Czech meals and beer.

Arctic Bakehouse—A modern bakehouse churning out a mouth-watering selection of baked goods. I’m sad I missed it.

Cafe Savoy—This is a traditional cafe near the river where you can get pastries, cakes, coffee, and cocktails. If you want something local and traditional, this place hits the mark.

Hemming Way Bar—A highly recommended cocktail bar next to the Charles Bridge.

Paddle Boats—Pack a lunch and hit the water in these adorable paddle boats when the weather is sunny and warm. (They even come with lounge chairs.)

Vzorkovna Dog Bar—A dive bar for the books. This was recommended by a friend who lived in the city. If you want to start the night with shots and chaos, this is the right place.